Instead of saying “Good morning,” Japanese businessmen in Osaka traditionally say “Moh-kari-makka?” (Are you making any money?) Only a year ago, the answer was a doleful no. The cutback in U.S.

It was a cold February day in northern Japan, snow piled high outside the onsen locker room windows as I slipped out of my clothes. Nervously, I stepped into the plumes of steam wafting from the next ...