The barbacoa estilo Hidalgo at El Columpio comprises three tacos and a bowl of consomme. Topped with onion, coriander and salsa, the tacos look like plenty of others. But this barbacoa is next level.
El Columpio, which translates from Spanish to mean “the swing”, sits somewhere between a taqueria and a cenaduría (the Mexican word for a neighbourhood restaurant). It embodies Ricardo Garcia Flores’s ...